taking beer seriously this summer

"Jim Koch is a hard-working guy who has created a very honest product with Samuel Adams beer. I think there is a huge trust involved on the part of the consumer when a new flavor is introduced. He gets credit for knowing what he's doing because it comes from genuine passion."--Chef David Burke

"I have to admit that when I cook, I usually cheat," confesses brewmaster Jim Koch, "because I use beer and my knowledge of beer to make the whole process simple."






Adding beer to a recipe isn't just another step, in Koch's estimation, but a very important component: "The brewers have already assembled a spice package in the beverage; just connect the right beer with the right protein, and you have a home run." Chef David Burke adds: "There is flavor in beer, just like in herbs and spices. When you add beer to food, to marinate or in a sauce, you impart those flavors."

While most consumers still associate beer with casual dining fare, things are changing dramatically on the beer-crafting side. This has lead talented chefs to not only incorporate more brews into their cooking, but also develop their cuisine to pair well with beer.

"These days, I meet so many people who know so much about beer, which brew is made from which wheat and so forth," marvels Burke. "There are genuine Sam Adams fans out there who endear Jim Koch with rock-star status. These are businessmen who know quality." Koch appreciates the enthusiasm; he's gone to great lengths to create a craft beer that consumers will take seriously, even as seriously as they take their wine: "Craft beer is brewed for flavor and complexity, just like a good wine, so sip it accordingly, because when you chug it, you miss all that."

And there is so much to miss! Chef Burke calls Koch "the world's greatest saucier," because he flavors his brews like a saucier: "He has this amazing basic veal stock, say, that he puts a little of this and that into and takes it in all different directions."

Take Sam Adams Summer Ale, for instance, Koch's attempt to bottle the essence of summer. They start with color and clarity--in this case a bright, golden hue with a slight haziness to it--capturing that moment

when a warm summer day turns into evening--when you're really ready for a beer! Barley and malt wheat lightens the mouthfeel without thinning it out. And then they add two spices to the fundamental structure of the beer, in this case, grains of paradise, a historic brewing spice from the Middle Ages, and lemon zest.

"Back in the day, when hops weren't as dominant as they are today, breweries improvised with a lot of different spices. I read about the use of grains of paradise in an old-fashioned brewing recipe book and was intrigued by the name. It turns out they are an aromatic, orchidaceous pepper that combines a spicy heat with a floral note. Searching for something to balance it out, I remembered from my travels in North Africa and the Middle East a peppercitrus harmony in cuisine. There, it's common to put pepper on an orange. So we experimented with both oranges and lemons and became partial to the bright lemon aroma, which on its own makes for a perfect summer drink."

Suddenly the pairing of spicy foods or tropical cuisines with beer becomes quite evident. "BBQ and beer is a natural pairing," explains Chef Burke, "because the beer puts out the fire of spicy food with a sheer volume of the liquid, and yet sends you right back for more!" Moreover, the carbonation in beer cuts through the fattiness of BBQ fare and physically cleanses the palate so you can taste better. Koch adds: "Beer has a backbone of malty sweetness that complements the acidity of the vinegar while blending nicely with the sugariness of the BBQ sauce. In many respects, the structure of a BBQ sauce reflects that of beer; you need a big, malty body to stand up to all those spices!"