A Convivial Transformation!
Open letter from Chris Cannon
In the last few months since the opening of Convivio, a number of customers have stopped at the door and asked the question, "Why did you change the name of the restaurant?" Some have been quite upset, citing their love of L'Impero and warning me that their meal had better be good! I consequently feel the need to explain the thought process behind a change that, to some, might seem counterintuitive, given the success of a restaurant that rated three stars in the New York Times and won a James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant in the US in 2002.
"By reopening as Convivio, I've been able to rethink the menu, giving me the opportunity to implement my culinary vision and interpretation of southern Italian cuisine with flavorful and soulful dishes." --Chef Michael White
I originally opened L'Impero in 2002 as a restaurant that would provide a high standard of service and cuisine at a reasonable price. Our original prix fixe menu was $48 for a fourcourse menu of antipasto, primi, secondi, and dessert. You could, of course, order à la carte as well, but we felt that we wanted to push our diners into ordering the traditional Italian meal as opposed to eating pasta as a main course or appetizer, as is common in the United States. The response was fantastic, as the restaurant was packed with enthusiastic diners from day one. Over the years, the prix fixe became costlier as we began to use more expensive products in order to satisfy our mistaken perception of what a three-star restaurant should be. Eventually, I felt the restaurant lost the conviviality and bustle that made each and every meal feel special.
In reopening as Convivio, Michael White and I are trying to recapture that sense of fun that was lost, and to highlight the warmth and sense of generosity that southern Italian food represents. We have added a whole new category of sfizi, or small tastes to the menu, and in general increased the selections by 40 percent and lowered our prices by 15 percent.
As for the décor, we asked our partner, Vicente Wolf, to simply fix some of the issues or deficiencies that we had in the seating layout of the room, and to, in general, give the room a more youthful Italian flair. We incorporated burnt-orange fabrics on the banquettes and clad some of the columns and walls in glass to give a more spacious and airy feel to the dining experience. The tabletop incorporates high-polished stainless steel chargers and new dishes to complete the transition.
Finally, we have revitalized the wine list with the help of our excellent Sommelier Levi Dalton, who came to us from stints at Masa and Daniel. The new list features an extensive selection of very interesting southern Italian indigenous varietals as well as New York's first all- Italian microbrew list and an excellent variety of amari.
The results speak for themselves. Our business is up dramatically, customers are happy, and we are proud to have received three stars from The New York Times and New York magazine, and a mention as one of the best new restaurants of the year from John Mariani at Esquire magazine. We hope to see you again soon, and thank you for all of your support in the past.