CORTON

The psychologist James Hillman once said, "People come to New York to find the ambiance that will evoke their best. They do not necessarily know precisely what that might be, but in New York they will discover it."

Chef Paul Liebrandt's New York discovery has been ten years in the making--but with each step his vision is more focused and the cumulative experience he has amassed has undoubtedly led him to Corton.

Ten years ago, when Liebrandt first arrived in New York from England, he had no job lined up but was in possession of two key features: ambition and a resume sparkling with recent tenures at both Pierre Gagnaire in Paris and Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons in Oxford. The latter secured him a position as chef de cuisine at Bouley Bakery but the former propelled him to culinary eminence. Atlas, Papillon, Gilt--all restaurants at which Liebrandt was executive chef--earned multiple stars from the critics and accolades from the New York dining public. Liebrandt has been described as "daring" and a "wunderkind" because of his playful use of ingredients and imaginative compositions, but it is his perfectly executed technique, firmly grounded in French tradition, that keeps the fans coming back. Among those fans is Drew Nieporent. When the time was right for both of them, Corton was born.

There may not be another restaurant in the city that has the provenance of Corton. Formerly Montrachet, Drew's beloved first Tribeca venture, the space is near and dear to his heart. But Paul Liebrandt, with his starred reputation and boundless creativity, was the perfect fit for the next stage of 239 West Broadway. As for the name, it should be noted that Corton is the largest area of grand cru in Burgundy and lies not far from another grand cru, Montrachet. "The name is no coincidence," says Drew. "I want people to see the continuity. Like Monrachet, Corton serves delicious food of the highest quality in a room with no bad tables and no pretension."

Drew's downtown vibe suits Liebrandt's cooking, which may be grounded in tradition but nevertheless offers food connoisseurs a casual surprise here and there. Chef Liebrandt considers his food to be "modern French," but this simple moniker somehow minimizes the tremendous thought and effort that go into the preparation of each dish. Partridge is prepared as a special, with a slow-roasted breast and leg cooked à la royale. They are paired with red cabbage and quince, whose silky texture and floral flavors perfectly complement the delicate meat--it is autumn on a plate. A dish for which Liebrandt has received justifiable attention is his Foie Gras with Beet Borscht Gelée and Blood Orange. Rather than clarified with egg whites, Liebrandt's consommé is fortified with the slightest bit of gelatin: frozen, dripped gently over cheesecloth to achieve its silken texture, then gelled in paper-thin sheets. The resulting borscht gelée envelops the foie, and every mouthful is imbued with a subtle, balanced sweetness.

Liebrandt seeks out his ingredients with the same passion that he brings to his creative process. Eggs are sourced from Violet Hill Farm, and Liebrandt considers them to be nothing less than perfect. "The quality is so high, so pristine, and when they are alone on the plate with nothing but sweetbreads, they have to be." Honey Locust Farm provides Corton's quince, shiso, and wild arugula. Game is flown in from Scotland. And what he cannot find, he makes himself, like the vadouvan, a specialty spice mixture that he uses to braise cobia, a tropical fish.

Those who come to Corton seeking the comfy banquettes of old will be surprised at how the space has been transformed. The renovation has resulted in a clean, romantic, unpretentious room with a clubby, personal atmosphere--a perfectly simple space to showcase food that is simply perfect. Drew, who has opened 31 restaurants in 23 years, clearly has an eye for talent, and what he has created in Corton is the perfect ambiance for Paul Liebrandt to evoke his best.