FISH - Tips, Griling, and Easy Serves

"The biggest mistake people make when it comes to fish is overcooking it," says Chef Michael White, who notes that in general we tend to overcook food in the United States. "Having a perfectly cooked piece of sea bass or a trout is very special."

The same goes for shellfish: White sings the praises of having steamed clams just opened, taken out of the pot one by one. "Less is more," he explains. "Having less ingredients and letting them stand on their own is very important." But starting with great fish is paramount to a great-tasting end product. "Know where you're buying from--which is a little easier in New York than in a lot of other cities given the access we have to great places like Fairway and Citarella, not to mention the fish markets." Besides good quality, White recommends buying in season: "Scallops, for example, thrive in cold waters, so don't buy them in the summer." If you're looking for a really exceptional piece of fish, he suggests getting a shipment from specialty companies, like Taylor Seafood, to ensure quality and freshness.

Just Grill It

Grilling season is coming up, and Chef White is a big advocate of grilled fish. While he readily admits its more work to eat, grilling fish on the bone definitely yields better results. "The fish stays moister and juicier," he says, "and is quite delicious."

Easy Serving Suggestions

Mozzarella apetizer: Fish and dairy together are extraordinary. Simply add bottarga shavings to a little mozzarella, and eat!
Shrimp salad: A perfect picnic pleaser. Poach shrimp in salted water, toss with olive oil and a little lemon juice, add beans and tomatoes, and serve.
Tuna panini: Grill a piece of tuna, slice it, and marinate with lemon and oil and herbs. Serve between ciabatta bread.
Tonno sott'olio: Poach a piece of tuna in oil and serve with roasted peppers and tomatoes.
Fava-bean mash: Poach the fava beans, and mash them up with minced basil. Add grilled fish on the side.
Pasta and bluefin-tuna bottarga: Combine your favorite pasta with garlic, olive oil, and parsley, and top with a slight grating of the bottarga at the table. Enjoy the strong, aggressive flavors.
Risotto with bottarga: Add smoked provolone cheese to a risotto, and top with a little bottarga. While not traditionally Italian, this dish uses highly Italian ingredients.