Put to the Test

Daniel Boulud and Laurent Tourondel, blindfolded.

No agenda, no script, only one rule--no peeking. Just two very accomplished chefs (and longtime amis) getting together for a friendly gustatory challenge--which was more about having fun than any kind of test.

Both chefs are passionate about their profession, and focused on turning out the best food, no matter what venue it may be. They each have made their mark on the dining scene in New York and around the world. The taste test was originally planned just for Laurent to challenge Daniel at BLT Steak. But the tasting was so much fun for the chefs that Daniel decided to invite Laurent Tourondel to his place, Restaurant Daniel, to do a taste test of his own.

BLT Steak Chef de Cuisine Christopher Lim, who worked for Daniel both at Restaurant Daniel and Café Boulud, couldn't resist the chance to get in on the action. He brought out the components of a butternut-squash soup to challenge his old boss, but Daniel was up to the task and named off each ingredient in swift succession.

DB: Ah, that was a great test. Laurent had to scratch his brain as hard as I did. The thing about this is that you have no idea what the challenging chef is doing, what he is thinking, or where he is going with the concept of a dish. Breaking it down like this blindfolded, your mind wants you to try to make flavor associations. And so you have to bring your taste buds into the process of asking "What could this be?" Most people eat with their eyes first, so what you see definitely influences taste.

Daniel Boulud

The Finished Dish

Tuna Tartare / Avocado / Soy-Lime Dressing

Crispy Shalots
LT: I think this one will be a little more difficult.
DB: This is definitely fried onion, or crispy onion. Or could it be garlic? Ah, I got it--crispy
shallot!
LT: That's right! I didn't think you would find that one exactly.

Wasabi
LT: Be a little careful on this one-- it's strong. Just a little on the spoon.
DB: Wow. That cleared my sinuses. Wasabi! Hey, soy and wasabi! I didn't know you were doing sushi now, Laurent!

Raw Tuna, tiny cubes
DB: After all the ingredients, I am sure it is raw fish. Is it tuna? It is very tender. Yes, it's tuna. I love it! Raw fish is difficult. I knew the texture was fish, but in this one there was no sinew, as opposed to fluke, or snapper, or even salmon.
This one was not really that easy to find the right fish!

Avocado
LT: It's a big piece on the spoon, but you can go for it. This one is going to stump you.
DB: Is this cold or hot? OK, it's cold. Ummm, this is my favorite vegetable, avocado. I eat tons of salad with avocado all the time.
LT: Are you sure you cannot see!

Soy Sauce
DB: Ahh, we're in China. Maybe Japan. Not fish sauce. Ponzu? Ponzu maybe. Could be China or Japan.
LT: You are definitely in the right part of the world. Maybe it could be both.
DB: Soy sauce! But that was hard to judge because of the viscosity.

DB: Delicious! The combination of flavors is just perfect. Bravo Laurent!
LT: Merci! This is one of our signature appetizers--it's been on the menu since the beginning.

Laurent Tourondel

The finished dish

Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad / celery / wal nut oil / granny smith sauce

Peekytoe Crab
DB: You might want to smell this one first.
LT: Ah, this is crab. Incredible--the freshness and flavor is incredible. And this is Peekytoe crab! That's good stuff.
DB: I knew you would get this, and even what kind of crab it was!

Green-Apple Mustard
DB: OK, be a little careful, this might be a little spicy.
LT: Mmmmm, this is delicious. There's whole-grain mustard in this, but it's a little sweet.
DB: Yes, there are multiple ingredients in this. It's a little fruity and it has an unusual color.
LT: I can taste a little citrus--oh, and now I get some apple. Did you mix mustard with an apple syrup?
DB: Close enough! It's green-apple mustard.
LT: Wow, that was hard. It was very tricky.
DB: Green-apple mustard is not easy to get! I think I got you on that one.

Celery two ways, leaves and stalk
DB: Both of these are from the same product.
LT: Ah, the first one has a leafy flavor; let me taste them both together. Dikon, or turnip?
DB: They're cut very thin, and so they might not have the same taste. Here's a hint: it's green, it's raw, it comes in long ribs. It goes well in Bloody Mary.
LT: It's, ah, celery.

Apple four ways
DB: Here's something prepared four ways. First is with vinegar. Second is poached with sugar. Third is a gelée. Fourth is raw.
LT: Ah, it's apple. I had it on the first one when I tasted the one with vinegar. The gelée was very unusual. The confit was nice, and the raw just confirmed it was apple.

Light Mustard Mayonnaise with Lemon
DB: (Daniel laughs) This is fun!
LT: Ah, easy, that's mayo. It has a little lemony flavor.

Walnuts
DB: This one was cut up very thin, almost like it is crushed.
LT: Definitely nuts. Almond? Ah, no, I got it. Walnut!

LT: This is a beautiful dish. Peekytoe crab is one of my favorite seafoods. I use it whenever I can at BLT Fish. This is just delicious.
DB: I'm glad you like it. It's one of the favorite appetizers on the menu right now.