In the Pan

Scott Conant shares some of his star ingredients, his favorite dishes using them, and recipes for creating an outstanding meal at home.

Chickpeas

Chickpeas, also known as garbanzo beans or ceci in Italian, are the most consumed legumes throughout the entirety of the world. Originally from the Middle East, they have a delicious buttery texture and nutlike taste, reminiscent of a raw chestnut or walnut.

Black Mission Figs

Originating from Spain and brought to North America by Spanish missionaries, the black mission fig is a medium to large pear-shape, purplish black fruit with crimson-colored flesh. Its flavor shows a very balanced sweetness with a hint of tang and an almost savory note at the finish. Look for fruit with small cracks on the sides or bottom. You can also tell a fig's ripeness by touch: ready-to-eat figs are tender and have a slight give.

Spice Rub

Szechuan pepper, juniper berry, clove, cinnamon stick, and star anise make up the savory flavor of the Scarpetta spice rub for the venison loin. The sweet tones of the star anise, clove, and cinnamon are balanced by the bite of Szechuan pepper, while the juniper berry marries them all together. It's a sweet, warm, cool, and spicy blend.

ASH-SPICED VENISON LOIN
Polenta-Bacon Dumplings

Ingredients
5 oz venison loin ash crust
salt
1 ea polenta-bacon dumplings
1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 oz Brussels sprouts, shaved pinch red chili flakes
½ oz caramelized shallots
5 ea dried cherries, rehydrated in water
2 oz concord reduction
1 oz parsnip puree

Procedure
1. Liberally coat the venison loin with the ash crust. Allow to sit overnight. Truss with butcher twine.
2. Lightly season with salt and cook on all sides on moderate heat. Finish in low temperature oven until rare. Allow to rest under the heat lamp.
3. Sear the canederli on both sides and finish in the oven until hot.
4. In a hot sauté pan, add the olive oil and the Brussels sprouts, a little salt, and red pepper flakes.
5. When they are wilted, add the shallots and cherries. Adjust seasoning.
6. Plate and sauce around the venison.

Ash Crust for Venison
Makes 1 cup

Ingredients
6 pieces cinnamon sticks
¼ cup Szechuan peppercorns
¼ cup star anise (6-7 pieces)
1 ½ tbsp cloves
¼ cup juniper berries Procedure
1. Burn the spices under a broiler until black, not white. If it catches fire, blow it out and continue.
2. Cool and grind in a spice grinder, and reserve for service.

Polenta-Bacon Dumplings
Makes ¼ sheet pan

Ingredients
bacon to equal ¼ cup cooked (about ¾ cups raw)
½ cup shallots, caramelized
1 sprig thyme
3 cups polenta, day-old preferred
2 cups panko
¾ cup all-purpose flour
4 egg yolks
¼ cup chives

Procedure
1. Cook the bacon until crispy, and drain the grease.
2. Add the caramelized shallots and thyme and heat thoroughly.
3. In a large mixer using the paddle, combine the polenta, panko, and flour. Mix until smooth.
4. Add the yolks, and mix to incorporate.
5. Fold in the bacon mixture and chives.
6. Spread evenly on one ¼ sheet pan.
7. Press and allow to set a few hours in the refrigerator.
8. Cut and reserve for service.

Concord Grape Reduction
Makes 1 quart

Ingredients
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup shallots, sliced thin pinch red chili flakes
1 cup concord grapes, destemmed and washed (or ½ cup concord grape juice)
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 sprigs thyme
1 quart chicken sauce, reduced

Procedure
1. In a sauce pot, add the oil and shallots. Begin to caramelize the shallots.
2. When the shallots begin to brown, add the red chili flakes and continue to caramelize.
3. Add the grapes and cook until the grapes have melted down.
4. Deglaze the pan with red wine vinegar and reduce down to almost dry.
5. Add the thyme and chicken reduction.
6. Continue cooking until flavorful and sauce consistency.