The wind was icy and powerful, chilling me to the bone and practically lifting me off my feet. I pulled with all my might to open the door to an old, abandoned coffee factory, and then pushed mightily to close the door against the relentless gale. It was the winter of 1989, and this was my introduction to 375 Greenwich Street. My first thought was that no one in his or her right mind would make the trek down to such a forlorn place. Now, two decades later, I can happily say that I was totally wrong. The doors I forced open and shut led to the construction site for the Tribeca Grill, a restaurant that has helped define a neighborhood and has become abeloved New York City destination. It started with a shared vision of Robert De Niro and Drew Nieporent to create a warm and welcoming restaurant with good food and drink that would anchor the first two floors of the Tribeca Film Center. Add Martin Shapiro, the managing partner, who two decades later, and with total dedication, still oversees a restaurant that has greeted millions of diners. Mix in two executive chefs--Don Pintabona and now Stephen Lewandowski--who serve up food that brings a smile, David Gordon, who has helped create a world-class wine list and an incredible staff--many of whom have worked at the restaurant since the beginning. The result is a successful restaurant with substance and integrity that has stood the test of time. One journalist endearingly called Tribeca Grill "a neighborhood restaurant for the whole world." As for those cold, harsh winds? They still sometimes whip down Greenwich Street in winter. But open the doors to Tribeca Grill, and there's always a warm welcome inside.

Named the 2007 World Champion Cheese Affineur "Refiner" and honored as a Master Craftsman of France, Rodolphe Le Meunier now brings his passion and cheeses to Bouley restaurants.

Rodolphe Le Meunier at Bouley Bakery
In order to send his cheeses to David Bouley, Le Meunier had to first master the transportation cycle to ensure the cheeses spend the least time in transit possible.

He also needed to make certain that once the cheeses arrived at Bouley Market, they would be stored in optimum conditions to breathe and evolve naturally. Bouley built a specially designed cheese cellar for this purpose. The cellar itself has a viewing window that allow patrons to observe the cheeses, and the room is climate controlled--set to the exact temperature, humidity, and ventilation levels needed to create the perfect environment for the cheeses. To complete the cycle, Le Meunier has developed a training program to teach Bouley's staff how to care for, cut, and present the cheeses.

Rodolphe Le Meunier at Bouley Restaurant
Le Meunier has also provided a coup de coeur selection of five cheeses to be presented on a tasting plate at Bouley Restaurant. The seasonal assortment will change every few months, and Le Meunier will also conduct exclusive tastings, such as a trilogy of aged Comté d'Alpages including a 2008 aged 18 months, a 2007 aged 30 months, and a third from 2006 aged 40 months. They will be paired with a vin jaune, a regional white wine from France's Jura region.

Rodolphe Le Meunier at Bouley Test Kitchen There will also be cheese events at the Test Kitchen, where guests can taste all of Le Meunier's cheese selections and learn how to incorporate them into recipes.

Comté d'Alpages AOC 18 Months
Cow--Jura
One hundred percent
Montéliarde cow's milk and free of additives, the Comté is aged for a minimum of 120 days. It has a nutty, slightly salty, yet sweet taste.

Morbier AOC
Cow--Jura
This smooth and sliceable cow's-milk cheese is still made according to tradition, with a fine dusting of ash between two layers.

Fourme d'Ambert AOC
Cow--Auvergne
A semihard blue cheese that is aged for a month during which time it is injected with sweet Vouvray moelleux wine, which also makes an excellent pairing.

Timanoix
Cow--Morbihan
A washed-rind cheese produced at a monastery in southern Brittany, it's rinsed in a walnut brandy and has a nutty note.

Tomme de Savoie
Cow--Savoie
Made from raw milk exclusively from cows in Savoie and Haute-Savoie, this traditional tomme is rich with distinctive herbal aromas that vary by producer.

Fouchtra de Vache
Cow--Auvergne
Similar to the Saint-Nectaire, this raw-milk cheese is aged for six months and has a brushed, clean crust. Volcanic terroir imparts distinctive flavor.

Puits d'Astier
Sheep--Auvergne
Aged on straw, this sheep's milk cheese has a delicate paste and a natural rind. Distinctive for the hole in its center, it's named is derived from the French word for well.

Galette d'Astier
Goat--Auvergne
Smooth and melty on the palate, the 10-week aging process allows for salty and pleasantly acidic notes that leave a delicate aftertaste of goat's milk.

Mimolette Vieille
Cow--Lille
Also referred to as the Boule de Lille, it resembles a cantaloupe at first glance. Naturally colored with annatto, the aged version, vieille, is chewy with a nuttyflavored crust.

Fumaison AOC
Sheep--Cantal
A raw sheep's-milk cheese that resembles a sausage, and is smoke-cured in much the same way.

Ossau-Iraty AOC
Sheep--Pyrénées
A firm, classic Basque cheese that has been made in the same tradition for centuries. It has an earthy quality similar to Sardinian pecorino, and is revered as one of the region's finest.

Petit Munster
Cow--Alsace
A 1,000-year-old recipe, this miniature round of washedrind cheese is luscious on the palate with sweeter notes of hay.

Tomme aux Piments d'Espelettes
Sheep--Basque Country
A firm sheep's-milk cheese that is coated in a light dusting of the Basque paprika, piment d'espelette, which imparts a toasty spiciness that enhances the cheeses own nutty, sweet flavor.

Tomme du Vieux Saulnois
Cow--Alsace
A semisoft, washed-rind cow's-milk cheese, it is rinsed with wine as it matures, which helps it to develop fruity notes with hints of mushrooms, grass, and butter.

Ossau-Iraty AOC
Sheep--Basque Country
A light, balanced Pyrénées sheep's cheese with fruit and nutty notes, it's considerably delicate for a mountainous-region cheese and has a thin, tart crust

Using an egg to crack the code of a restaurant is not uncommon and has historically stood as a quality marker in our industry. The pleats in a chef's toque are believed to represent the number of ways a professional should be able to prepare an egg.

In the 1950s, Chef Fernand Point of La Pyramide in Vienne, France, would put fellow three-star Michelin chefs on the spot and have them prove their culinary mastery by frying an egg. Even the famed gastronome James Beard recalls, "There are few things as magnificent as scrambled eggs, pure and simple, perfectly cooked and perfectly seasoned." The care that goes into cooking our eggs at Eleven Madison Park would make these chefs proud, but just as special as their preparation is their source.

Chef Daniel Humm features Knoll Krest Farm eggs, continuing the more than 20-year relationship that Danny Meyer started at his first restaurant, Union Square Cafe. Located in the heart of the Hudson Valley, in Clinton Corners, New York, the farm has been a regular at the Union Square Greenmarket for nearly 25 years. In the farm's infancy, the Messerich family patriarch declared, "I will never put a bird in a cage." Thus was born the farm's 60-year commitment to its flock and customers.

Seeing the farm today is a window into the past, as the chicken coops are some of the oldest remaining upstate. They boast beautiful stone foundations, where chickens roam free--reminiscent of old farms in Tuscany or Provence. The family raises Rhode Island Reds, which produce fewer eggs than commercial breeds. What they lack in quantity is made up for in quality. Their firm egg whites and sturdy, bright yolks are the result of a vegetarian diet free of hormones and antibiotics. The eggs arrive at our doorstep within three days of being laid, continuing the family's original practice of door-todoor delivery.

The painstaking care and practices of Bob and Alice Messerich produce eggs that are the foundation for Chef Humm's menu. Diners might not realize that the humble egg can be found throughout the entirety of their meal. Featured as an appetizer, used in many sauces, sabayons, and even cocktails, diners experience Knoll Krest Farm eggs from the first gougère to the last macaron.

Bob and Alice, now in their 80s, have joined forces with Elizabeth Ryan of Breezy Hill Orchard. This union ensures the family's farming legacy will be preserved well into the future, maintaining their roots and presence at the Greenmarket. After knowingly and unknowingly sampling Knoll Krest eggs at Eleven Madison Park, we hope that you grow to admire, respect, and appreciate Knoll Krest and their product as we do. And the best part is that you can bring a Knoll Krest delectable dozen into your own home, sharing with your friends and family the magic of a perfect egg.

The poulet de Bresse is the French gastronomic mascot, its colors mimicking the country's flag. Aside from the bird's white feathers and red cockscomb, the poulet de Bresse is defined by its distinctive, striking steel-blue feet. If you visit any three-star Michelin restaurant in France, there will invariably be a chicken dish featuring the coveted poulet de Bresse. The breed is so highly sought after that it fetches around 15 euros a kilo ( just over $10 a pound) in markets, and it is illegal to export any part of the bird--dressed, live, or even an egg--outside of France.

The city of Bourg-en-Bresse is in eastern France and is just 43 miles northeast of the country's gastronomical capital, Lyon. Its residents have raised their prince among poultry since early Roman times. However, the first recorded mention of the bird was triumphantly scribed in 1591, when citizens of Bourg-en-Bresse awarded the Marquis of Treffort with two dozen birds for his bravery, which included driving off an army of marauding Savoyard soldiers. As if that proved too small a gesture to solidify its status in the gastronomic elite, the poulet de Bresse's reputation was assured by 1825, when the 19th-century epicure and gastronome, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, described the bird as "the queen of chickens and the chicken of kings."

In 1936, the chicken breeders of Bresse waged a bitter court battle in order to protect their product from fraudulent farmers elsewhere in France. Court experts determined that the region's distinctive clay-rich soil, the temperate climate, the breed's proven purity, and specific poultry-rearing methods indeed combined to produce a unique, inimitable bird. The French thought so highly of their first-class fowl, they treated it like their prized wines from exclusive terroirs, granting it AOC status in 1957.

American chefs tasted this delectable bird abroad and sought a way to offer a similar specimen to the American dining public. Thanks to the efforts of Peter Thiessen, a Canadian poultry breeder, and Bob Shipley, manager of a California farm cooperative, they were able to do just that. In 2004, after years of experimentation, Thiessen produced a bird that wowed Vancouver's French chefs and eventually reached Central Valley Farms, one of Shipley's co-ops, where it's now bred exclusively and distributed by D'Artagnan. Thus, the California Poulet Bleu--or California Blue Foot, as it's commonly called--made its way onto menus from coast to coast. The American gold standard had finally arrived.

These chickens are treated like royalty, raised with plenty of room to roam, natural lighting, and an all-vegetable, antibiotic-free, whole-grain diet. They are fed milk with their water, allowed to age many weeks longer than other poultry, and air-chilled after slaughter. All of these factors result in the classic supple texture and rich gamey flavor of this prized poultry. As an ode to their French counterparts, American chefs commonly present the cooked bird tableside, with the head and feet intact--thus showcasing the chicken's dramatic colors in the dining room.
As chefs on both sides of the Atlantic adoringly prepare their prized poultry, it is obvious these birds stand at the top of the pecking order. And because they need little embellishment in their preparation--the bird has already done most of the work--diners constantly give them what might one day be construed as the highest praise: "They really taste like . . . chicken."

Chickpeas

Chickpeas, also known as garbanzo beans or ceci in Italian, are the most consumed legumes throughout the entirety of the world. Originally from the Middle East, they have a delicious buttery texture and nutlike taste, reminiscent of a raw chestnut or walnut.

Black Mission Figs

Originating from Spain and brought to North America by Spanish missionaries, the black mission fig is a medium to large pear-shape, purplish black fruit with crimson-colored flesh. Its flavor shows a very balanced sweetness with a hint of tang and an almost savory note at the finish. Look for fruit with small cracks on the sides or bottom. You can also tell a fig's ripeness by touch: ready-to-eat figs are tender and have a slight give.

Spice Rub

Szechuan pepper, juniper berry, clove, cinnamon stick, and star anise make up the savory flavor of the Scarpetta spice rub for the venison loin. The sweet tones of the star anise, clove, and cinnamon are balanced by the bite of Szechuan pepper, while the juniper berry marries them all together. It's a sweet, warm, cool, and spicy blend.

Ingredients
5 oz venison loin ash crust
salt
1 ea polenta-bacon dumplings
1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 oz Brussels sprouts, shaved pinch red chili flakes
½ oz caramelized shallots
5 ea dried cherries, rehydrated in water
2 oz concord reduction
1 oz parsnip puree

Procedure
1. Liberally coat the venison loin with the ash crust. Allow to sit overnight. Truss with butcher twine.
2. Lightly season with salt and cook on all sides on moderate heat. Finish in low temperature oven until rare. Allow to rest under the heat lamp.
3. Sear the canederli on both sides and finish in the oven until hot.
4. In a hot sauté pan, add the olive oil and the Brussels sprouts, a little salt, and red pepper flakes.
5. When they are wilted, add the shallots and cherries. Adjust seasoning.
6. Plate and sauce around the venison.

Ash Crust for Venison
Makes 1 cup

Ingredients
6 pieces cinnamon sticks
¼ cup Szechuan peppercorns
¼ cup star anise (6-7 pieces)
1 ½ tbsp cloves
¼ cup juniper berries Procedure
1. Burn the spices under a broiler until black, not white. If it catches fire, blow it out and continue.
2. Cool and grind in a spice grinder, and reserve for service.

Polenta-Bacon Dumplings
Makes ¼ sheet pan

Ingredients
bacon to equal ¼ cup cooked (about ¾ cups raw)
½ cup shallots, caramelized
1 sprig thyme
3 cups polenta, day-old preferred
2 cups panko
¾ cup all-purpose flour
4 egg yolks
¼ cup chives

Procedure
1. Cook the bacon until crispy, and drain the grease.
2. Add the caramelized shallots and thyme and heat thoroughly.
3. In a large mixer using the paddle, combine the polenta, panko, and flour. Mix until smooth.
4. Add the yolks, and mix to incorporate.
5. Fold in the bacon mixture and chives.
6. Spread evenly on one ¼ sheet pan.
7. Press and allow to set a few hours in the refrigerator.
8. Cut and reserve for service.

Concord Grape Reduction
Makes 1 quart

Ingredients
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup shallots, sliced thin pinch red chili flakes
1 cup concord grapes, destemmed and washed (or ½ cup concord grape juice)
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 sprigs thyme
1 quart chicken sauce, reduced

Procedure
1. In a sauce pot, add the oil and shallots. Begin to caramelize the shallots.
2. When the shallots begin to brown, add the red chili flakes and continue to caramelize.
3. Add the grapes and cook until the grapes have melted down.
4. Deglaze the pan with red wine vinegar and reduce down to almost dry.
5. Add the thyme and chicken reduction.
6. Continue cooking until flavorful and sauce consistency.

New York City's first fully operational winery is suffused with both the aromatic notes from fermenting grapes and the vibrancy of live music in our intimate concert space. We are a place where one can sit and enjoy great wine from a handblown Riedel glass, immersed in the ambience of a beautiful 300-capacity room, enjoying some of the greatest musicians in the world. Already in less than a year, we have hosted artists as diverse as Philip Glass, Patti Smith, Rufus Wainwright, David Byrne, Suzanne Vega, and Ingrid Michaelson. We are the first serious music venue built inside a real winery smack-dab in the middle of Manhattan.

We are also bringing the rock stars of the wine world together in a way not previously seen
in New York. We have had public dinners and classes with Christian Moueix, esteemed
winemaker of Dominus and Chateau Petrus; classes taught by Kevin Zraly of Windows on
the World; and dinners with Daniel Jonas of Daniel, Jean Luc Le Dû, and many others. Our biweekly cheese classes with our partner, Murray's Cheese, are almost always sold out, every time. Our facility has hosted private wine tastings, large trade-association events with producers from Argentina to Napa, and individual distributor meetings and luminaries in food and wine publishing. We are a wonderful facility for private corporate parties, weddings, bar or bat mitzvahs, and special events. From a Tribeca Film Festival awards night with Robert

De Niro to a gala fundraiser for Mayor Bloomberg, we have hosted some very cool events.
But beyond the music and events, we also make world-class wine, handcrafted to perfectly
express both the urban terroir of New York City and the terroir of California, Oregon, New York State, and wherever we find the best grapes. There is so much activity going on at City Winery, you really do need Notes to take it all in. And visit us online at www.citywinery.com, always the best place to get the most up-to-date information.

Thank you for reading this far, enjoy the guide, and we'll see you soon.
Michael Dorf
Founder & CEO

Bring up Laurent Tourondel, and Louis Rozzo effuses. The fourth-generation F. Rozzo & Sons fish purveyor took some time to chat about the history of the business, himself, and his client and dear friend, Laurent.

How would you define your relationship with Laurent?
I have a tremendous amount of respect for him, and every time I'm with him we have fun. I realize there are a lot of fish guys out there, so besides the friendship, as a business partner I know that he relies on me to provide the best product.

What is the backstory on F. Rozzo & Sons?
We started in 1900 with my great-grandparents, who came over from Italy. While my great-grandfather started off as a gravedigger, my grandmother took a job filleting fish and was earning five times as much as he was, so they decided to start their own business.

What was it like back then?
My father used to tell me that the Fulton Fish Market was run by the Irish, and that at first they wouldn't let my great-grandfather buy any fish until his wife's boss, who was Irish, vouched for him. He peddled his first box of fish back in his neighborhood and made more money on that box than he did in two weeks working as a gravedigger. Back then, he would go down to the market in a horse and buggy. Now take this next story as you will, but apparently my greatgrandfather would sometimes fall asleep in the back of the buggy, but since the horse went to the market so often, he knew exactly where to go!

Aside from the mode of transportation, how has the fish business changed?
While my father used to buy all his fish from Fulton Street, I buy mine direct from commercial fisherman. The technology of freight, the way fish can be packed and shipped, now gives me a huge advantage. I buy fish from Brazil, Ecuador, Holland, and France. There's a much greater variety available today.

What does Laurent favor?
While he wants fish that is exotic and interesting, his overall concern is quality, so he prefers fish that I can get locally. I can get sea bass, eight or nine hours out of the water, directly to his restaurant.

What can diners expect from the sea on the fall menu?
Ocean striped bass, black sea bass, fluke--there's a lot of beautiful local fluke around. Also, local monkfish.

Anything new and exciting?
Yes, I'm actually going to be the first guy to bring in Alaskan king crabmeat uncooked, sashimi quality. I have been very impressed with the quality of this product, and it's a perfect fit with Laurent's philosophy.

What is your favorite dish on a BLT menu? I have to admit that BLT Fish
is one of my favorite restaurants in New York City, and Amy, Laurent's protégé there, does a whole red snapper that is out of this world. Also, the black cod at BLT Market is to die for.

Do you have preferences when it comes to pairing fish and wine?
I'm unconventional in that I really enjoy red wine, and all of Laurent's restaurants offer a great selection. My favorite is an Opus.

What's your favorite fish?
That's a tough question, because I love fish. I sell to 300 restaurants, and I try to eat my fish in every one of them. It's just my passion--I enjoy them all thoroughly.

What's your favorite at-home preparation?
I'm not really one to kill it with a lot of sauce. I love to take a fluke that I know was swimming just this morning or late last night, fillet it, and sauté it with a little butter and some salt. I prefer to really taste the fish on its own.

No agenda, no script, only one rule--no peeking. Just two very accomplished chefs (and longtime amis) getting together for a friendly gustatory challenge--which was more about having fun than any kind of test.

Both chefs are passionate about their profession, and focused on turning out the best food, no matter what venue it may be. They each have made their mark on the dining scene in New York and around the world. The taste test was originally planned just for Laurent to challenge Daniel at BLT Steak. But the tasting was so much fun for the chefs that Daniel decided to invite Laurent Tourondel to his place, Restaurant Daniel, to do a taste test of his own.

BLT Steak Chef de Cuisine Christopher Lim, who worked for Daniel both at Restaurant Daniel and Café Boulud, couldn't resist the chance to get in on the action. He brought out the components of a butternut-squash soup to challenge his old boss, but Daniel was up to the task and named off each ingredient in swift succession.

DB: Ah, that was a great test. Laurent had to scratch his brain as hard as I did. The thing about this is that you have no idea what the challenging chef is doing, what he is thinking, or where he is going with the concept of a dish. Breaking it down like this blindfolded, your mind wants you to try to make flavor associations. And so you have to bring your taste buds into the process of asking "What could this be?" Most people eat with their eyes first, so what you see definitely influences taste.

The Finished Dish

Tuna Tartare / Avocado / Soy-Lime Dressing

Crispy Shalots
LT: I think this one will be a little more difficult.
DB: This is definitely fried onion, or crispy onion. Or could it be garlic? Ah, I got it--crispy
shallot!
LT: That's right! I didn't think you would find that one exactly.

Wasabi
LT: Be a little careful on this one-- it's strong. Just a little on the spoon.
DB: Wow. That cleared my sinuses. Wasabi! Hey, soy and wasabi! I didn't know you were doing sushi now, Laurent!

Raw Tuna, tiny cubes
DB: After all the ingredients, I am sure it is raw fish. Is it tuna? It is very tender. Yes, it's tuna. I love it! Raw fish is difficult. I knew the texture was fish, but in this one there was no sinew, as opposed to fluke, or snapper, or even salmon.
This one was not really that easy to find the right fish!

Avocado
LT: It's a big piece on the spoon, but you can go for it. This one is going to stump you.
DB: Is this cold or hot? OK, it's cold. Ummm, this is my favorite vegetable, avocado. I eat tons of salad with avocado all the time.
LT: Are you sure you cannot see!

Soy Sauce
DB: Ahh, we're in China. Maybe Japan. Not fish sauce. Ponzu? Ponzu maybe. Could be China or Japan.
LT: You are definitely in the right part of the world. Maybe it could be both.
DB: Soy sauce! But that was hard to judge because of the viscosity.

DB: Delicious! The combination of flavors is just perfect. Bravo Laurent!
LT: Merci! This is one of our signature appetizers--it's been on the menu since the beginning.

Laurent Tourondel

The finished dish

Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad / celery / wal nut oil / granny smith sauce

Peekytoe Crab
DB: You might want to smell this one first.
LT: Ah, this is crab. Incredible--the freshness and flavor is incredible. And this is Peekytoe crab! That's good stuff.
DB: I knew you would get this, and even what kind of crab it was!

Green-Apple Mustard
DB: OK, be a little careful, this might be a little spicy.
LT: Mmmmm, this is delicious. There's whole-grain mustard in this, but it's a little sweet.
DB: Yes, there are multiple ingredients in this. It's a little fruity and it has an unusual color.
LT: I can taste a little citrus--oh, and now I get some apple. Did you mix mustard with an apple syrup?
DB: Close enough! It's green-apple mustard.
LT: Wow, that was hard. It was very tricky.
DB: Green-apple mustard is not easy to get! I think I got you on that one.

Celery two ways, leaves and stalk
DB: Both of these are from the same product.
LT: Ah, the first one has a leafy flavor; let me taste them both together. Dikon, or turnip?
DB: They're cut very thin, and so they might not have the same taste. Here's a hint: it's green, it's raw, it comes in long ribs. It goes well in Bloody Mary.
LT: It's, ah, celery.

Apple four ways
DB: Here's something prepared four ways. First is with vinegar. Second is poached with sugar. Third is a gelée. Fourth is raw.
LT: Ah, it's apple. I had it on the first one when I tasted the one with vinegar. The gelée was very unusual. The confit was nice, and the raw just confirmed it was apple.

Light Mustard Mayonnaise with Lemon
DB: (Daniel laughs) This is fun!
LT: Ah, easy, that's mayo. It has a little lemony flavor.

Walnuts
DB: This one was cut up very thin, almost like it is crushed.
LT: Definitely nuts. Almond? Ah, no, I got it. Walnut!

LT: This is a beautiful dish. Peekytoe crab is one of my favorite seafoods. I use it whenever I can at BLT Fish. This is just delicious.
DB: I'm glad you like it. It's one of the favorite appetizers on the menu right now.

What are some of your favorite childhood food memories?
I started cooking at a very young age. My grandfather was a baker in Cuba. You could find me at a very young age standing on milk crates or telephone books to watch him make empanadas. I was always very involved. I used to go to Miami every summer to help out in the family business. I'd press Cuban sandwiches, brew coffee, or make croquetas. I guess it could have been seen as child labor anywhere else, but I enjoyed it too much to consider it work!

So you always knew you wanted to continue the tradition?
Yes, but at first I didn't take it seriously; I never opened my eyes to it as a career. I studied international relations, I was very much into political science, and I worked in international development after I graduated from college.

Then what happened?
One day I woke up and realized that I was sitting in a cubicle, staring at a computer, and I wanted to shake it off. So I did. I had just bought a house, so I sold it; same with my car. I even broke up with my fiancée! Then I moved to Paris to learn how to really cook. A lot of people thought I was crazy!

Who is your biggest influence in the kitchen? My grandfather--he still means the world to me, and I find inspiration in his memory. He died when I left for college, so he never really got to see me cook. I try to honor him in the kitchen by being as creative as I can.

Aside from culinary school, what have you learned in other areas of your life that carries over into the kitchen?
Patience. I used to be a bit of a hothead. I'm a father now; I have children at home. I'm still always focused on quality, but I don't get so aggravated. I don't lose it.

What is your cooking philosophy? What are you trying to achieve?
I could sit here and tell you the usual--that I value quality ingredients, simplicity, etc.--and while all of that is true, as a chef, I strive to create something new and different, and I try to do that every day. So as far as philosophy goes, I guess it's just hard work and staying creative, and honoring the chefs that I learned from and trying to build on it. Every chef has a sort of lineage of chefs, mentors that have put time and energy into teaching him or her. Likewise, I want to be an inspiration to others; I want to do my part and teach others too.

Have you ever mistakenly created something that actually turned out well?
While fundamentally I have an idea of the way flavors work, as all chefs do, I have to admit, I have had the occasion to be surprised by things I put together that turn out better than expected. I recently created a dish with pork belly and sardines. It sounds a little odd, but somehow the two fats went together really well. I made a little ginger-tomato chutney to go with it and added in a little toast. It was one of the most amazing flavors I've ever put together. It was this fat-on-fat surf and turf that could have turned out awful, but actually turned out really well. As a rule of thumb, I don't force things together; I just let things come together naturally.

Tell us about the collaborative process in developing new dishes with Laurent.
We are in constant communication, whether it be about the bar menu, our blackboard specials, or sourcing quality items. He's always very receptive, and is an extremely creative chef. He really is an inspiration to work for.

What's in store for the fall and winter menu? What are your seasonal touches?
Seasons are really important in keeping the restaurant cuttingedge and current. I'm really enjoying concord grapes right now. I take pleasure in simple things, like short ribs or Berkshire pork belly, that I found a nice way of doing. But I could just as easily talk endlessly about having apples and pears in the house. How much time do you have?

Give an example of something you're excited about on the new menu.
I'm doing a foie gras with a concord grape jam and crispy pancetta layered on a brioche. It's really interesting. I've also created a scallop dish, and I made a bacon glacé to accompany it. I started with a bacon jus. I do a confit of flat bacon for a different dish, and so I use that fat once it settles at the bottom. I clarify and reduce it into a beautiful bacon glacé. Diners are always puzzled by how this liquid tastes so much like bacon, and it goes really nicely with the scallops.

How about in your own kitchen at home?
I don't actually cook that much at home anymore; but when I do, I'm a big fan of beans, actually. The Cubans and Peruvians love beans: bean stews, black beans, white beans, short ribs with lentils. I favor rib-sticking comfort food--I love it! When you begin the long process of a nice stew, it's all love. What you put into it is what you ultimately get out of it.

We know you're a big meat guy. What is your favorite cut, and your favorite way to prepare it?
I like flank steak. I grew up eating that and chorizo, sweetbreads, and blood sausages. I'm a big fan of the classic Argentinean grill. But I also enjoy different cuts, like hanger steak and skirt steak, and getting them to taste better than you could ever possibly imagine.

Can you give us some tips for cooking meat at home?
I've done a lot of classes and instructional stuff on grilling and cooking, and, you know, people are kind of shy about meat--shy about seasoning it, about turning on their grill, about sourcing the best-quality cuts and getting it right. It's not that hard. I always tell people, Don't be so reserved--go out there and find your favorite meat and your favorite seasonings. It's a trial-anderror process.

If you had to have your last cut of meat, what would it be? Oh God!
Don't ask me that, because I'm going to give you a terrible answer! My favorite meal in the world is a breaded steak that you get in Miami called bistec empanisado. It is very thin, like a Milanese, and comes a caballo: rice, black beans, sweet plantains, and two fried eggs on top of it!