Chef Burke is excited about some of the signature dishes that he's bringing back to the menu at the newly renovated David Burke Townhouse.
Burke's original creations have always been groundbreaking in terms of technique and flavor combinations, and they have stood the test of time. Burke believes every restaurant should be known for certain dishes. The sign of a dish's success is when customers continually ask for them when they go off the menu. Some of Burke's original dishes have been slightly updated, but the architecture of them remains completely intact--only the garnish, some of the herbs, or the color of the sauce may have changed. And Burke will be adding some new dishes that he hopes will become instant classics--such as a new Peanut Brittle Roast Duck--sure to quickly become a guest favorite.
Crisp Angry Lobster
 
David Burke finds humor in every dish, and that's the case of his infamous Crisp Angry Lobster. With a name like that, the diner is already smiling. It is a quintessential Burke classic--a dish that is memorable not only because of its quirky name, but also
because the diner remembers it as being so tasty. "Angry Lobster is a signature dish that I personally never tire of."
 NEW YORK STRIP STEAK & BONE MARROW OXTAIL DUMPLINGS
The show goes on with this new creation from Burke that is like sculptural theater on a plate.
Rack of Lamb & Roasted Octopus
 Some might consider this surf and turf an unusual combination on the same plate. But
for David Burke, it all makes sense, and guests have deemed it another hit on the menu. "Both ingredients hail from the Mediterranean, and their individual flavors work well together. The octopus is meaty enough to stand up to the lamb, which is served on a bed of saffron couscous that we finish with a mustard and Moroccan glaze."
Roasted & Crispy Seawater-Soaked Chicken
"There is something so comforting about roasted chicken. We actually brine the chicken in seawater that gives it an extra layer of flavor. The chanterelle purée is a great seasonal accompaniment."
Handmade Cavatelli & Braised Short Ribs
 "Another customer favorite, and perfect for the fall and winter months, this hearty dish has fresh wild mushrooms that represent the season, and a truffle mousse that just adds so much wonderful flavor."
The Lobster Steak
 Ever the creative wordsmith with the names of his dishes, the Lobster Steak is no exception. This David Burke classic has been brought back with only a slight garnish change. "We take a compact, two-pound lobster; shape it--not cut it-- into a filet; and bound it with butter and a little puréed shrimp. It's unique and packs an incredible wallop of flavor."
Sea Scallop Benedict
 This is another dish that Burke has recently put back on the menu at many diners' requests. "The great part about this dish is that it's not too 'bulky,' but it still has a
gourmet edge to it. It's the lightness of the dish that makes it so clever."
Samantha Moretti
 One of the most important reasons to work in a restaurant is because you have a genuine interest in the industry, as I do. I currently work as a server, a bartender, and a sommelier because I love this industry and food and wine. Working at Scarpetta is particularly easy--since the food is wonderful and the wine is great, it's very easy to stand behind the product. Every single time I approach a table and speak on behalf of the menu or while presenting a dish, it comes from my heart, because I know that the diner is going to love their meal. I think it is important that the guests have an experience from start to finish, that we take them on a ride. Explaining the menu, reviewing the dishes when they reach the table, detailing the wine as they are drinking it, checking back 20 minutes later when it has opened up to make sure they are enjoying it--all the steps that help make the experience a great one from the first sip to the last bite.
What have you learned along the way? I have always loved working in restaurants. At Abboccato, I gained a passion for the art of food and learned everything I know about service and all that encompasses hospitality. Hospitality really is the most important element in a restaurant, so it's crucial to grasp the concept and execute it well. At Esca, I really bridged the gap between learning about service and food and being educated about food. I came to Scarpetta because I wanted to work with Italian food and be able to show my personality in the process. Being able to put your personality into everything you do is a trait that Scott Conant treasures in his staff. In my case, the biggest thing that I want to convey to the diner is passion! As your server, I am not only delivering your plate, but I am giving you my soul, I am giving you everything that is important to me. From the moment I wake up in the morning until the time that I come into the restaurant at night, I am constantly thinking about food, about how the night is going to go, about how I can present a new dish, or talk about a new cheese plate or another cool wine that I want guests to taste that night. I am not trying to be actor or a dancer--I just want to be the best server I can be.
What makes it all click at Scarpetta? It starts with the food and the wine, but then you add staff with smiles and passion for what they do, and suddenly the guests feel warm, they feel welcome, they feel satisfied with what is in front of them. When you take that combination to the next level, you have a full dining room that starts to have its own heartbeat and personality. You walk in and you can feel all of the cylinders of the restaurant working in sync: you hear the music, the sounds of silverware, of people clinking their glasses and uttering "salute"; you hear waiters explaining the dishes. You also take it all in visually: at the table next to you, the cloche comes off, the steam rises, and you see these amazing pastas, then you spy a great pork chop over in the corner. You get excited, the guests get excited, they ask where certain items are on the menu and want to be told the specifics about the dish.
 What can you recommend, what should we order, how should we do it, how should we course it out? It becomes rhythmic, and by the time they leave, they are planning their return. And then they tell their friends. There is a phrase in the restaurant industry: if guests love the food, they'll tell one of their friends; if they hate it, they'll tell 10 of their friends. We've had a lot of happy customers.
What is your favorite dish? The spaghetti gets all the press, but there are many other things that merit attention. My favorite dish on the menu is the Black Maccheroni. It is spectacular! My aunt, who was really into food, used to say when she liked something, "If God likes it, he eats it on Sunday." I think the Black Maccheroni is just that. The mussels, clams, rock shrimp, a little bit of sea urchin, which liquefies itself when it hits heat and really becomes part of the dish, and just a touch of minted bread crumbs, which adds earthiness to the finish--that is perfection.
Last Bite: My dad said that when you love your job you never have to work a day in your life. I get to host a party every night, so I would have to say it's a pretty good job!
Hudson Valley Fresh is a not-for-profit dairy cooperative dedicated to preserving the agricultural heritage of the Hudson River Valley. By supporting sustainable agriculture, they have made it their mission to secure living wages for farmers and their families and to ensure a fair price for Hudson Valley farmers' goods in order to keep those farmers in business. Look for the Hudson Valley Fresh logo and for the premium-quality dairy products: whole, skim, low-fat, and chocolate milk along with half-and-half, heavy cream, and sour cream. Visit hudsonvalleyfresh.com.
a taste of spring
from the forest morel mushrooms
morels have always been highly prized for their rich earthy quality. when prepared, morels release a rich, nutty flavor and woodsy fragrance.
on the menu
green asparagus, braised oregon morels, lemon sabayon
from the vineyardnew sautéed duck
foie gras dish paired with a glass of "candela" pinot noir from monterey, california, specially bottled for adour new york.
on the menu
sautéed duck foie gras, rhubarb marmalade, hearts of peach palm, duck jus
from the seajohn dory, also known as st. pierre, is a deep-sea fish with an olive-yellow body that has a large dark spot and long spines on the dorsal fin. moist in texture with small, fine flakes, it has a slightly sweet flavor.
on the menu
baked john dory, baby fennel, zucchini, riviera sauce
from the pasturemark martin of elysian fields farm in pennsylvania takes a holistic approach with his lamb. the animals are humanely raised, fed only natural grasses and grains, and drink only water that has been tested for purity.
on the menu
roasted elysian fields lamb saddle, tender young vegetables, navarin jus
favorite sweet pairingrhubarb and strawberry dessert paired with a glass of taittinger champagne "nocturne."
on the menu
rhubarb and strawberry granite, sour cream sorbet
From looking through the cellophane, you can't much tell how dried pasta will cook or
taste. It should have an even buff color, and don't be alarmed if you see tiny black spots--
semolina is milled much more coarsely than ordinary flour, and flecks of bran usually show. A finely pitted, dull surface is far preferable to a glossy one--it suggests that the pasta was made with a bronze die and will hold sauce better.
Gauging portion sizes is always tricky. The standard portion in Italy, and the size usually recommended on packages, is two ounces.
Cook pasta in abundantly salted water at a full rolling boil so that the pasta will keep moving as it cooks and not stick together.
Add the pasta all at once. And don't add oil to the cooking water, as it reduces the starch on the pasta's surface. Only use oil when cooking long or large shapes, such as lasagna noodles, in order to keep them from sticking.
Always combine pasta with the sauce, and let the two cook together for a minute or so before final seasoning and serving.
A dish of dressed pasta should be flowing, not sticky or soupy. All the pieces should be separate and have a uniform texture.
Add a last touch of extra-virgin olive oil, either drizzled into the pasta and sauce as they simmer together or drizzled over the pasta on the plate. It makes a plate of pasta "smile."
Stir in grated cheeses at the very end, after you remove the pasta and sauce from the heat and just before you plate it.
Pasta should be served hot and as soon as it's ready. To serve, make a little pasta nest, or nido. The pasta will be more contained and will stay nice and hot.
Cooked, dry pasta should have a clean, slightly nutty flavor and, above all, a texture that stays firm until you finish eating.
yields 3 mini tacos
 Tuna filing
6 oz bigeye tuna or sashimi-grade tuna, chopped
2 tbsp shallots, minced
2 tbsp white soy
2 tbsp cilantro, minced
1/4 cup macadamia nuts, roasted and chopped
Pineaple salsa
1 cup pineapple, diced
1/4 cup red onion, diced
2 tbsp cilantro
1 tbsp Tabasco
juice of 1 lemon
salt and pepper
3 mini taco shells
Method
In a medium bowl, mix together ingredients for tuna filling. In another medium bowl, mix together ingredients for pineapple salsa. Place approximately 2 ounces of the tuna filling in each taco shell. Top with 1 tablespoon of the pineapple salsa.
This is a straightforward, traditional, fresh tomato sauce in which ripe tomatoes--and little else--get cooked quickly to retain their vibrant flavor. Why then is this dish such a hit? The key is in the finish. Here's how I put the dish together at the restaurant: I take a single portion of pasta, cooked just shy of al dente, and add it to a sauté pan that holds a single portion of hot, bubbling tomato sauce.
To toss the pasta and the sauce together, I use that pan-jerking method we chefs are
so fond of. I also do this to look cool . . . kidding! The real reason for this technique is
that it not only coats the pasta evenly with the sauce but also introduces a little air into
the process, making the dish feel lighter and brighter. When you add the pasta to the
sauce, gently toss the pasta with a couple of wooden spoons, lifting the pasta high above
the bottom of the pot. Finish the dish with some butter, cheese, and basil.
20 ripe plum tomatoes
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus a touch more to finish pinch of crushed red pepper kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound spaghetti
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
6 to 8 fresh basil leaves, washed, dried, and stacked and rolled into a cylinder that is then cut thinly crosswise into a chiffonade
1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated
 To Peel the Tomatoes: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Have a large bowl of ice water nearby. Cut a small X on the bottom of each tomato. Ease about five tomatoes in the pot and let boil for about 15 seconds, then promptly move them to the waiting ice water; continue this method with the remaining tomatoes. Pull off each tomato's skin with the tip of a paring knife. If the skin sticks, try a vegetable peeler using a gently sawing motion. Cut the tomatoes in half and use your finger to flick out the seeds.
To Cook the Tomatoes: In a wide pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high until quite hot. Add the tomatoes and crushed red pepper, and season lightly with salt and pepper. (I always start with a light hand, because as the tomatoes reduce, the salt will become concentrated.) Let the tomatoes cook for a few minutes to soften. Then, using a potato masher, finely chop the tomatoes. Cook the tomatoes for 20 to 25 minutes, until they are tender and the sauce has thickened.
To Serve: Bring a large pot of amply salted water to a boil. Cook the spaghetti until just shy of al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving a little of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the sauce and cook over medium-high heat, gently tossing the pasta and sauce together with a couple of wooden spoons and a lot of exaggerated movement (you can even shake the pan) until the pasta is just tender and the sauce, if any oil has separated from it, now looks cohesive. (If the sauce seems too thick, add a little pasta cooking liquid to it.) Take the pan off the heat, toss the butter, basil, and cheese with the pasta in the same manner (the pasta should take on an orange hue), and serve immediately.
Executive Chef at Felidia
As one of the country's most-beloved and well-respected chefs, surely it must be a daunting task, to say the least, to select the right person to man the kitchen of your namesake restaurant?
But Lidia Bastianich found exactly who she was looking for when she hired Fortunato Nicotra, a Piedmont-trained and Michelin-starred chef, nearly 13 years ago. Nicotra brings the same sense of adventure and appreciation for quality to his cooking at Felidia that Lidia brings to each of her endeavors around the world.
The inventive and refined palate of flavors and ingredients that Chef Nicotra employs in his dishes are his way of cooking as true to his Italian roots as possible. "I don't really like the term 'modern Italian cuisine,' " states Nicotra. "Using fresh, local ingredients is more traditional in terms of Italian cuisine than anything else. When Italians cook, they get the best and the freshest tomatoes they can--they'd never use any that came from far away or were out of season."
Speaking of tomatoes, when in season, guests at Felidia encounter a large variety of local heirloom tomatoes on Nicotra's menu--called out by their individual names, like Toy Box and Lemon Boy. The chicken comes fresh from Four Story Hill Farm in Pennsylvania, and Long Island fluke and tuna are used whenever possible.
Beyond what's local, Nicotra especially enjoys using a variety of ingredients that he's discovered since moving to New York, experimenting with items that aren't frequently put to use in Italy. One such ingredient is peanut butter, which Nicotra has become fanatical about. He has found inventive ways to integrate it seamlessly into his dishes through such recipes as his foie gras sandwiches and the peanut-butter-and-jelly panna cotta. He has also developed quite a taste for corn, which is usually found in Italy only in polenta, and it is used in a variety of Felidia's menu items. During the fall and winter months, Nicotra loves cooking with American-style squashes like the acorn, butternut, and hubbard varieties, which have never been readily available in Italy.
And while he's happy to use whatever can be found close at hand, there are still a few staples that Nicotra has sent from Italy--like the big, cylindrical wheels of Grana Padano cheese, melt-in-your-mouth burrata, and aged Balsamic vinegar. His guests seem pretty content to have a taste of the old world, too.
by Fortunato Nicotra, Executive Chef at Felidia
Peanut butter and Jelly Panna Cotta
Serves 6
2 cups of heavy cream
1/2 cup sugar
1 vanilla bean
2 sheets of gelatin
6 tablespoons of peanut butter
12 tablespoons of Concord grape jam
Bring 1/2 cup of the cream, sugar, and vanilla bean to a boil.
Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.
Soak the gelatin in 4 cups of cold water until soft, about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain with a small sieve and add to hot cream mixture.
With a paring knife, open the vanilla bean and scrape seeds into cream mixture. Then strain the mixture through a sieve and let cool.
Whip 1 1/2 cups of heavy cream until stiff, and fold whipped cream into the cooled and strained cream mixture. Place 1 tablespoon of peanut butter into the bottom of 6 4-ounce cups. Add 1 tablespoon of Concord grape jam on top of the peanut butter. Pour in the panna cotta and allow to cool for 1 to 2 hours. When panna cotta is cool, bring the remaining Concord grape jam to a boil and spread the melted jam on top of each panna cotta. Place in the refigerator for at least 2 hours or overnight. Invert and serve.
Chef David Burke goes to great lengths to ensure that from pasture to plate, not only do diners get the best possible cuts of meat, but that the process is traceable, efficient, and controlled.
Chef David Burke goes to great lengths to ensure that from pasture to plate, not only do diners get the best possible cuts of meat, but that the process is traceable, efficient, and controlled.
Traceability
"Location, location, location!" Bob Mark of Buckhead Beef explains emphatically when asked what criteria he looks for in first selecting the cattle ranches he works with. "When you open a restaurant, it's all about location, and we feel the same way about our animals." Traceability is paramount when it comes to working with farmers. "After we make
sure the farmer has total traceability, then we move to the 'where' factor."
The colder the climate, the more internal fat steers put on. "With this in mind, we concentrate on cattle from the Midwest, fed on corn, because we also believe in the old adage 'what you feed an animal is what they become.' "
Mark also has a hands-on approach with the ranchers that makes everyone feel like part of the family. "I visit the ranches about six times a year for two reasons: one is to make sure standards are being met, and the other is to maintain relationships--making sure everyone is happy."
Portion Control
 While the business of farming has evolved, perhaps one of the most important ways the industry has changed is in how technology sets the tone for new businesses practices, especially in the way of portion control. The implementation of portion control has been extremely positive for restaurants and chefs. "It's old-world butchery meets newworld technology," Mark explains. State-of-the-art machines are able to produce same-size, custom-specific cuts, trimming the beef to tolerances within half an ounce. The benefits are overwhelming: portion control makes the kitchen's job easier and more efficient. For any given cut, all portions are the exact same size, shape, and weight, and there is more precision in cooking time and temperatures. There is no waste, as
every ounce of meat is served and the prep staff doesn't have to do any trimming or boning--it's all been done by highly skilled cutters that prepare the portion-ready meats. There is great economic efficiency in portion control at the restaurant. With the elimination of waste and the reduction of time, equipment, and labor necessary to prepare portions,
the immediate result is a lower cost per serving.
With the business of meat grounded in responsible farming, modern technology, and solid chef relationships, like the one with David Burke, Buckhead keeps in step with a changing industry whose improvements have a direct result on our plates and our palates.
Phillips Brothers in Asheboro, North Carolina, has been curing country hams since 1947. They still cure their hams the slow, old-fashioned way: hand rubbing each fresh ham with a special curing mixture, placing them in a refrigerated curing room in oak bins for 45 days, and finally hanging them in the drying and aging room for 35 days or more, where they achieve their old-time Southern flavor. We like it best on a morning biscuit, especially with red-eye gravy--ham-fat drippings mixed with black coffee--but it is also delectable on its own.
Visit www.phillipsbrotherscountryhams.com.
Andrew Garrison Shotts is the thinking person's chocolatier. His creations are inspired by fine art, their names are informed by literature, and the flavors he develops are as complex and layered as a fine wine. A bonbon from Garrison is a masterpiece in a mouthful! He creates new flavors seasonally, based on peak ripeness and market availability.
garrisonconfections.com
by Bob Lipinski
Tuscany, located in central Italy, north of Latium, is the home of such great red wines as Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Carmignano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and of course Super-Tuscans. White wines of repute include Vernacia di San Gimignano and the incredible dessert wine, Vin Santo.
For thousands of years, Tuscany has been quietly making red wines from its stable of indigenous, local grapes such as sangiovese, canaiolo nero, ciliegiolo, colorino, and mammolo.
Its white wines, made from the local trebbiano toscano, malvasia, canaiolo bianco, and grechetto grapes, were aged sometimes for several years in oak barrels, creating amber-colored, oxidized, non-fruity wines, often with hints of vinegar.
Modern Italy--the last 30 or so years--and younger winemakers have brought plantings of international grapes such as cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, and syrah for the reds, and chardonnay and sauvignon blanc for the whites. Some top-notch Tuscan wineries to seek out are Antinori, Barbi, Castello Banfi, Castello di Verrazzano (the bridge was named after the explorer), Cecchi, Col d'Orcia, Coldisole, Rocca delle Macìe, Ruffino, and Straccali.
In 1835, Baron Bettino Ricasoli developed and defined the grape variety formula for Chianti wine, which consisted of a blend of sangiovese, canaiolo nero, and malvasia del Chianti grapes. When the DOC--for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, the Italian quality-assurance appellation--law for Chianti was instituted on August 30, 1967, the producers decided not to register a white wine as Chianti.
Continue reading a grape review: wines of tuscany.
 Hudson Valley foie gras
Hudson Valley not only sets the standard in taste, but they are also the first USDA-certified, cage-free foie gras duck farm in the country. We like that they let their ducks run free. These are some of our favorite indulgences: foie gras (in every form), applewood-smoked magret, duck leg confit, and lastly the air-dried duck prosciutto.
Visit hudsonvalleyfoiegras.com.
Roasted Walnut Oil
La Tourangelle brings its products -- and a new mill-- stateside.
The 150-year old French artisan oil-mill that continues to produce uniquely flavored nut oils in time-honored tradition, now has a sister-mill based in California, complete with custom fabricating century-old equipment and a French oil roasting master to train the staff.
The result: new offerings from nuts picked on neighboring orchards, sun-dried and hand-roasted before cold-pressed and light-filtered. For fall, we love the roasted walnut oil.
This highly versatile oil pairs with just about everything--from salads to grilled meats--or just on its own with bread!
www.latourangelle.com
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