Chef Burke is excited about some of the signature dishes that he's bringing back to the menu at the newly renovated David Burke Townhouse.
Burke's original creations have always been groundbreaking in terms of technique and flavor combinations, and they have stood the test of time. Burke believes every restaurant should be known for certain dishes. The sign of a dish's success is when customers continually ask for them when they go off the menu. Some of Burke's original dishes have been slightly updated, but the architecture of them remains completely intact--only the garnish, some of the herbs, or the color of the sauce may have changed. And Burke will be adding some new dishes that he hopes will become instant classics--such as a new Peanut Brittle Roast Duck--sure to quickly become a guest favorite.
Crisp Angry Lobster
 
David Burke finds humor in every dish, and that's the case of his infamous Crisp Angry Lobster. With a name like that, the diner is already smiling. It is a quintessential Burke classic--a dish that is memorable not only because of its quirky name, but also
because the diner remembers it as being so tasty. "Angry Lobster is a signature dish that I personally never tire of."
 NEW YORK STRIP STEAK & BONE MARROW OXTAIL DUMPLINGS
The show goes on with this new creation from Burke that is like sculptural theater on a plate.
Rack of Lamb & Roasted Octopus
 Some might consider this surf and turf an unusual combination on the same plate. But
for David Burke, it all makes sense, and guests have deemed it another hit on the menu. "Both ingredients hail from the Mediterranean, and their individual flavors work well together. The octopus is meaty enough to stand up to the lamb, which is served on a bed of saffron couscous that we finish with a mustard and Moroccan glaze."
Roasted & Crispy Seawater-Soaked Chicken
"There is something so comforting about roasted chicken. We actually brine the chicken in seawater that gives it an extra layer of flavor. The chanterelle purée is a great seasonal accompaniment."
Handmade Cavatelli & Braised Short Ribs
 "Another customer favorite, and perfect for the fall and winter months, this hearty dish has fresh wild mushrooms that represent the season, and a truffle mousse that just adds so much wonderful flavor."
The Lobster Steak
 Ever the creative wordsmith with the names of his dishes, the Lobster Steak is no exception. This David Burke classic has been brought back with only a slight garnish change. "We take a compact, two-pound lobster; shape it--not cut it-- into a filet; and bound it with butter and a little puréed shrimp. It's unique and packs an incredible wallop of flavor."
Sea Scallop Benedict
 This is another dish that Burke has recently put back on the menu at many diners' requests. "The great part about this dish is that it's not too 'bulky,' but it still has a
gourmet edge to it. It's the lightness of the dish that makes it so clever."
yields 3 mini tacos
 Tuna filing
6 oz bigeye tuna or sashimi-grade tuna, chopped
2 tbsp shallots, minced
2 tbsp white soy
2 tbsp cilantro, minced
1/4 cup macadamia nuts, roasted and chopped
Pineaple salsa
1 cup pineapple, diced
1/4 cup red onion, diced
2 tbsp cilantro
1 tbsp Tabasco
juice of 1 lemon
salt and pepper
3 mini taco shells
Method
In a medium bowl, mix together ingredients for tuna filling. In another medium bowl, mix together ingredients for pineapple salsa. Place approximately 2 ounces of the tuna filling in each taco shell. Top with 1 tablespoon of the pineapple salsa.
As with agriculture, aquaculture is becoming more transparent in terms of traceability.
NGOs, or nongovernmental organizations, post their own fish advisory lists. The status of
fish species changes regularly based on new research. Here's a sample of the good, the bad and the endangered.
Best choices for healthy, sustainable fish
These species are currently considered relatively abundant, with fishing or farming methods causing little damage to their habitats and other wildlife.
Abalone (farmed)
Alaska salmon
Albacore tuna
Atlantic char (farmed)
Atlantic herring
Atlantic mackerel
Barramundi (U.S. farmed)
Catfish (farmed)
Haddock (hook and line only)
Mahimahi (U.S. Atlantic)
Pacific cod
Pacific halibut
Pacific sole
Rainbow trout (farmed)
Striped bass
Striped mullet
Tilapia
Tuna (Atlantic only)
Walleye pollack
Yellowtail (U.S. only)
Currently endangered fish
These species have a combination of problems, such as overfishing, high bycatch, and poor management, or farming methods that have serious environmental impact. Some aquacultured farms around the world have made great strides to provide these species in a nonthreatening environment and, furthermore, add to the populations in surrounding waters.
American plaice Atlantic cod
Atlantic flounder
Atlantic halibut
Atlantic salmon
Atlantic sole
Bigeye tuna
Bluefin tuna
Blue marlin
Corvina
Chilean sea bass
Grouper
Orange roughy
Shark (imported)
Yellowtail (Japanese farmed)
What to know about mercury and polutant levels
Mercury is a naturally occurring metal that exists at low levels throughout the environment--and because it is an element, it never breaks down or disappears. Mercury is also released into the air primarily from industrial sources, falling to the ground in rain or snow and entering streams, rivers, lakes, and oceans through water runoff, where it is converted into a highly toxic form of mercury called methylmercury. Methylmercury can build up in the tissues of fish, and in high concentrations can pose serious health risks to people who frequently eat contaminated fish.
PCBs, or polychlorinated biphenyls, are highly toxic industrial compounds. Although banned from manufacture in the United States in 1977, PCBs are slow to break down and can persist in the environment at dangerous levels. PCBs accumulate in sediments at the bottom of streams, rivers, lakes, and coastal areas. Like mercury, these chemicals can build up in the fatty tissues of fish and other animals and pose serious health risks if consumed in high concentrations.
Fish is generally healthy to eat, but you should eat some types infrequently, if at all. Blue Ocean Institute, at blueocean.org, works to inspire a closer relationship with the sea through science, art, and literature. One of their efforts resulted in the creation of a phone "text" application. Next time you are at a restaurant or shopping for fish, text "FISH" and the species name to 30644 for instant sustainability information. Cell phone and PDA users can visit fishphone.org to download a cell phone-friendly seafood guide. For more information on unhealthy fish, also visit greenpeace.org or montereybayaquarium.org.
Litchfield Farms is Falling for Fish
A few years back, Litchfield Farms made a decisive move away from land-based agriculture products and into the seafood market. General Manager Andrea Angera's grandfather had started the business 75 years ago, at a time when there weren't "unnatural" products.
"It really wasn't until after World War II that we saw the impact of industrial fertilizers on the products we were consuming," says Angera, "and now we are finally back full circle to a time that emphasizes a natural profile. There was a big social context to the original organic movement, which was to support farmers and eat food that came from people we knew, that was harvested using techniques we approved of, including being good to the animals and the environment."
As a recreational fisherman, Angera had decided to take a closer look at the seafood sector and recognized it was at the same place that agriculture had been many years ago: in need of refocusing. "The consumption of fish is increasing, as it should. It is an ideal protein source: low in fat and rich in omega-3 and -6. But the general concerns about mercury and pollutants, as well as sustainability and affordability, are genuine." Litchfield Farms strives to bring its customers--both chefs and individual consumers alike--fresh fish that is completely traceable, by forging relationships with like-minded fisheries the world over.
They start with a defined standard for every fish they distribute. "One hundred percent of wild fisheries are either at capacity or have collapsed today," Angera states, "so we only support limited wild fisheries that have a cultural connection, not factory fishing. After all, it would be wrong to tell an Ecuadorian fisherman that he can't go out and catch fish to feed his family or local community, or someone on Long Island who has been oystering there for 300 years to stop. It's about maintaining a connection to the sea and a cultural connection to tradition." Case in point: his Brazilian producer that supplies cobia, a wild fish that is often a bycatch. Everyone who works on this particular farm was a local fisherman put out of business when large companies came in with factory boats. "Not only is it a greattasting product, but you are helping create cultural reinvigoration in the area, so everyone wins."
 A recent study released by the United Nations supports aquaculture farms as the best source of fresh fish for human consumption, and Angera couldn't agree more, although he carefully selects only farms that meet the company's high standards. Litchfield prides itself on its hands-on connection with every facility they work with: each one has been visited and verified by a staff member. "We hold everyone we do business with accountable--we ask for their feed analysis, and we are told of every change or health issue that occurs." He offers as example the Norwegian company Codfarmers, who have a fully integrated program for cod, currently on the list of endangered species, where they take eggs and sperm together with the local genetics of the Norwegian wild cod and raise them in what Angera considers one of the best-managed environments in the world. Another example of exemplary farmed fish is the Kindai tuna, a completely cultured bluefin tuna 30 years in the making, courtesy of Japan's Kinki University. "The fish we represent have to be indigenous," Angera explains. "Here, wild fish are brought in for the genetic expression, and any excess that can't be raised are released into the wild. This is a case of cultivating a fish to maintain a cultural connection by preserving a cultural icon, not raising fish to feed the planet because bluefin are so high up on the food chain. Feed the world with cobia, not tuna!"
Litchfield Farms is also committed to education. "Training involves an academic element--a full history of the relationship of all parties in the seafood industry, as well as a demonstration using the fish. In the case of the Kindai tuna, the idea is to show how every piece is usable, right down to the bones used for fish stock after every scrap of meat is removed for tuna tartar. In Japan, even the tendons are cured and made into pastrami."
"When I walk into a restaurant, I'm not just selling fish--I'm bringing a story with a connection to a person with an exceptional product, and that's how I get business," explains Angera. "I connect with the chefs because we share a commitment to the same thing." And with a little effort on our part, eating the right fish for the right reasons will make all the difference in the world--starting with the oceans.
Chef David Burke is working to make Fishtail the first all-sustainable seafood restaurant in New York, and he approaches this lofty goal with real motivation. "It's the right thing to do," he explains. "My children should be able to eat the same fish during their lifetime that I have in mine. If we don't make changes now, before long they won't know what swordfish tastes like, and that would be a real shame."
Having excelled in the past by working with partners who focus on animal traceability and accountability, Chef Burke is now making those same promises to his guests at Fishtail, his latest New York venture. "It's challenging, it's interesting, and it's time to take a stand," he adds, noting that connecting with the right purveyors, such as the Connecticut seafood distributor Litchfield Farms, has made the job a little easier. He says that while 80 percent of the current menu is sustainable, the goal is to get that percentage even higher. "We are constantly making adjustments to the menu. Cod is popular but not sustainable, so I took it off the menu." Other items, such as soft-shell crab, are harder to dismiss. "We have to balance what our customers want with what is right. It's impossible to find sustainable soft-shell crab, but people love them. It doesn't mean I stop searching for a sustainable source though."
Known for his custom touches, both on the plate and on the walls, Chef Burke did not allow Fishtail to be immune to his treatment. "I'm by no means a designer," he chuckles, "but I had fun decorating the space." And it shows, from the graffiti-laced lamp shades that hang over the downstairs raw bar to the upstairs collection of playful fish paintings that he commissioned--whimsy mixes well with a serious approach in the kitchen.
Although there is a definite nautical theme to the décor, Burke throws typical design a curveball by using deep purple for the banquets that line the downstairs bar. "I kept the wood-plank floor to resemble a boat; found a sculpture adorned with mermaids, that looks like driftwood; and placed in the stairwell a red glass sculpture, handblown by my good friend and Brooklyn-based chef Michael Ayoub, to give an effect of buoys." Upstairs, the coral fishnet-wallpapered space, replete in sunshine, takes on a more demure feel. There is even an Andy Warhol--Fish--from Burke's private collection on display. "Honestly, a lot of what we did was practical design," admits Chef Burke. "There is definitely a sense of fancy and design, but it's simple and beautiful in a timeless, sexy fashion, not overdone. We left plenty of room to add or subtract if we want to."
To complement the juxtaposition of rooms, the menu presents a bounty of balance: simple fare and more intricate dishes both vie for a spot on the table. The menu looks expansive, but on closer inspection, the choices are pared down to different treatments of a few key varieties of fish and seafood. For example, mussels, albeit angry ones à la Burke, appear in both the raw-bar section as well as in a hot dish. To reflect both time and tide, the menu changes seasonally and is constantly fine-tuned.
Creating a sustainable-focused restaurant presents another huge hurdle in addition to sourcing: price. "The fish is more expensive, but we are willing to absorb those costs," Burke explains. "It's called 'investing in what we are doing.' " He hopes the success of his latest venture will allow him to spread the word on sustainable seafood to his other restaurants. Early favorable reviews of Fishtail and its initial success in the neighborhood points to this goal as attainable, and necessary for all the right reasons. In the meantime, Chef Burke stays relentlessly committed to providing the freshest fish possible for his guests, even if it means catching it himself!
Sandy Banker is an interior architect at the Friedmutter Group. She worked closely with Chef David Burke to realize the design and detail behind David Burke Prime, located in Foxwoods Resort and Casino. Together, they pooled their creative inspirations to bring the project to life.
Give us an overall look and feel for David Burke Prime.
It's a very contemporary-style steakhouse that has the flavor of South American gaucho infused with Chef Burke's whimsy. It's roughly 13,000 square feet, complete with a bar/lounge, a main dining area, and a private banquet room for up to 100 people.
What factors into the inspiration behind the design and detail of any space?
I basically get a square box to work with. I start with "programming," or the basic requirements of the space: what is its function, and what do you need to accommodate within it? In this case, I asked Chef Burke how many people he anticipated to determine the size of his kitchen, bar area, dining room, and so forth. From there, the flow of how each area's function interacts with the others dictates traffic patterns.
How do you incorporate the client's personality into the physical facade of a building?
It's different for everyone, but basically I take a characteristic of their personality and reflect it into the design. For example, with a bubbly personality, I focus on happy colors. Since Chef Burke is very whimsical, I tried to incorporate elements that had a lot of curves and spaces within a space so that every corner you turn presents something different or unexpected. David Burke's cuisine is like that--full of surprises.
Continue reading Design of a Chef.
Secession is a French-Italian brasserie celebrating a collaborative menu between Chefs David Bouley and Cesare Casella. The menu showcases the kind of food David Bouley would like to eat when he's not behind the stove.
Roasted Organic Beets with Horseradish Fromage Blanc and Pumpkin-Seed Dressing
Recipe makes 1 terrine or 12 appetizer servings.
Beet Layers
8 to 10 medium red beets
(or 2.25 lbs)
1 tsp caraway seeds
1 tbsp canola oil
shy 2 cups balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp champagne vinegar
2 cups white beef stock
2 cups beet juice
salt and pepper
leaf gelatin
Fromage Blanc
leaf gelatin (2 sheets plus
1 inch broken crosswise)
1/2 cup plus
1/3 cup sour cream
1/2 cup crème fraîche
1/2 cup prepared horseradish
1/3 cup whipping cream
salt and pepper
lemon juice
Pumpkin-Seed Dresing
1/2 tsp canola oil
1/8 cup pumpkin seeds
1/4 cup pumpkin seed oil
1 tsp sherry vinegar
salt and pepper
For the Beet Layers:
Roast the beets in a covered, heavy-bottomed roasting pan, sprinkling them first with caraway seeds and a bit of canola oil and adding a 1/2 cup of water. Roast them in a 400-degree oven for 3 to 5 hours, turning the beets often to make sure they don't burn. Add more water if it evaporates.
Continue reading From Secession.
With the highly successful David Burke Las Vegas in the Venetian, and the October opening of a Burke in the Box at Terminal D in the Las Vegas airport, Chef David Burke has plenty of reasons to visit Sin City.
"Given the choices, dining in Las Vegas is a very unique experience, and so it was very important for us at David Burke Las Vegas to understand not only who our customers are but also make sure the menu registered with them," he explains. The result is a delicate balance of David Burke signature dishes and more traditional combinations, catering to the discerning palate of the Las Vegas diner.
With Chef Todd Stein in the kitchen and General Manager Marisa Scarpulla at the dining-room helm, Chef Burke gets a little downtime during his visits to have some fun too. "I like to go to shows--I've seen Jersey Boys there a couple of times! I'm not much of a nightclub guy, but I enjoy dining out and doing my fair share of shopping as well."
Some of his favorite places to dine include Bartolotta at the Wynn, Michael Mina and Yellowtail at the Bellagio, and Bouchon at the Venetian.
Chef David Burke goes to great lengths to ensure that from pasture to plate, not only do diners get the best possible cuts of meat, but that the process is traceable, efficient, and controlled.
Chef David Burke goes to great lengths to ensure that from pasture to plate, not only do diners get the best possible cuts of meat, but that the process is traceable, efficient, and controlled.
Traceability
"Location, location, location!" Bob Mark of Buckhead Beef explains emphatically when asked what criteria he looks for in first selecting the cattle ranches he works with. "When you open a restaurant, it's all about location, and we feel the same way about our animals." Traceability is paramount when it comes to working with farmers. "After we make
sure the farmer has total traceability, then we move to the 'where' factor."
The colder the climate, the more internal fat steers put on. "With this in mind, we concentrate on cattle from the Midwest, fed on corn, because we also believe in the old adage 'what you feed an animal is what they become.' "
Mark also has a hands-on approach with the ranchers that makes everyone feel like part of the family. "I visit the ranches about six times a year for two reasons: one is to make sure standards are being met, and the other is to maintain relationships--making sure everyone is happy."
Portion Control
 While the business of farming has evolved, perhaps one of the most important ways the industry has changed is in how technology sets the tone for new businesses practices, especially in the way of portion control. The implementation of portion control has been extremely positive for restaurants and chefs. "It's old-world butchery meets newworld technology," Mark explains. State-of-the-art machines are able to produce same-size, custom-specific cuts, trimming the beef to tolerances within half an ounce. The benefits are overwhelming: portion control makes the kitchen's job easier and more efficient. For any given cut, all portions are the exact same size, shape, and weight, and there is more precision in cooking time and temperatures. There is no waste, as
every ounce of meat is served and the prep staff doesn't have to do any trimming or boning--it's all been done by highly skilled cutters that prepare the portion-ready meats. There is great economic efficiency in portion control at the restaurant. With the elimination of waste and the reduction of time, equipment, and labor necessary to prepare portions,
the immediate result is a lower cost per serving.
With the business of meat grounded in responsible farming, modern technology, and solid chef relationships, like the one with David Burke, Buckhead keeps in step with a changing industry whose improvements have a direct result on our plates and our palates.
Todd Applebaum's fine-feathered friends pack a mighty kick, so it's best to keep on their good side: "Male ostriches get very aggressive during breeding season and will come right at you. I've been run out of fields before, stepped on, and pinned. One even kicked out the door of my truck!" Nevertheless, the benefits of raising ostriches far outweigh the physical consequences, with the question of healthful eating being a prime motivator...
Along with his brother Lance, Todd Applebaum runs Fossil Farms, a fully integrated facility for raising ostriches. There are over 500 head of ostrich on the 550-acre farm. The birds eat organic alfalfa and corn feed (there is fresh food and water in front of them 24/7) and are free to roam the grounds, carefree and happy. On a daily basis, Todd mans the farm work pretty much on his own, feeding the animals and maintaining the property. During breeding season (March to August), his workload ramps up considerably, due to the added processes of collecting, incubating, and hatching the eggs.
"I collect an average of 100 eggs a week. Ostriches lay their eggs at dusk. If
the eggs are kept with the hen, she will lay 15 to 20 eggs in a season; if they
are taken away, productivity is a lot higher." After gathering them, Todd painstakingly cleans each egg and sets it in the incubator for a period of
about 40 days. A few days after the eggs are transferred to the hatchery,
the chicks are born.
Although considered poultry, ostrich is a red meat with a texture and taste
similar to beef. "We compare it to tenderloin; it's very tender and our birds do
not taste gamey at all." It is low-fat, has a low-calorie intake, and has been
recommended by both the American Cancer Society and the American
Heart Association because of its healthy benefits. Ostrich meat is best
cooked quickly over very high heat to seal in the juices. Because the meat
is so lean, overcooking will dry it out.
For more information, go to www.fossilfarms.com.
 "Jim Koch is a hard-working guy who has created a very honest product with Samuel Adams beer. I think there is a huge trust involved on the part of the consumer when a new flavor is introduced. He gets credit for knowing what he's doing because it comes from genuine passion."--Chef David Burke
"I have to admit that when I cook, I usually cheat," confesses brewmaster Jim Koch, "because I use beer and my knowledge of beer to make the whole process simple."
Adding beer to a recipe isn't just another step, in Koch's estimation, but a very important component: "The brewers have already assembled a spice package in the beverage; just connect the right beer with the right protein, and you have a home run." Chef David Burke adds: "There is flavor in beer, just like in herbs and spices. When you add beer to food, to marinate or in a sauce, you impart those flavors."
While most consumers still associate beer with casual dining fare, things are changing dramatically on the beer-crafting side. This has lead talented chefs to not only incorporate more brews into their cooking, but also develop their cuisine to pair well with beer.
"These days, I meet so many people who know so much about beer, which brew is made from which wheat and so forth," marvels Burke. "There are genuine Sam Adams fans out there who endear Jim Koch with rock-star status. These are businessmen who know quality." Koch appreciates the enthusiasm; he's gone to great lengths to create a craft beer that consumers will take seriously, even as seriously as they take their wine: "Craft beer is brewed for flavor and complexity, just like a good wine, so sip it accordingly, because when you chug it, you miss all that."
And there is so much to miss! Chef Burke calls Koch "the world's greatest saucier," because he flavors his brews like a saucier: "He has this amazing basic veal stock, say, that he puts a little of this and that into and takes it in all different directions."
Take Sam Adams Summer Ale, for instance, Koch's attempt to bottle the essence of summer. They start with color and clarity--in this case a bright, golden hue with a slight haziness to it--capturing that moment
Continue reading taking beer seriously this summer.
4 1/2 oz unsweetened iced tea
2 1/4 oz ginger syrup
1 1/2 oz Woodford Reserve bourbon
1 1/2 oz peach schnapps
juice of 1 small lime wedge
1 fresh peach wedge
Directions:
Combine the iced tea, syrup, bourbon, schnapps, and lime juice in a cocktail shaker and shake to mix.
Fill one 14-ounce tumbler 3/4 full with ice. Pour the iced tea mixture over the ice and garnish with the
peach wedge.
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